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COLLECTING SEMINOLE CLOTHING
By: John Bauer
In thirty years of
buying and selling antiques I have collected a variety of
specialty fields. During the early 1980's I bought the contents
of a house which included a collection of Native American
artifacts. The items were so beautiful and constructed so
intricately that my curiosity lead to research.
I discovered the
items were from the 19th century and from different tribes and
areas of north America which opened a whole new world of
collecting of me. There are so many areas in this field that it
takes a lifetime of reading and understanding. In this article I
will explore primarily the south eastern categories of native
American objects. ( do's and don'ts )
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1930-1940 Seminole Dress
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If you want to
collect, buy these objects because you like them and not with
the idea that they are an investment. Get passionate about them,
read, go to museums, auctions and talk with knowledgeable
dealers. Focus on one or two types of material and understand
what you are buying and the fair market price. Learn the
difference between good, better and best. This will take a keen eye,
as most Native American objects are one of a kind. Beware of
look a likes, fakes and objects with serious damage or
restoration.
South eastern
tribes generally include Creek, Cherokee, Choctaw, Mikasuki and
Seminole. There were many other tribes, but as early as the
1600's these cultures, thousands of years old, suffered disease,
disruption and eventually destruction. By the 19th and early
20th centuries a long period of both loss of regional habitat
and cultural influence had begun.
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1950 Man's Jacket
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During these
times, introduction of glass beads and trade cloth were now
incorporated into traditional hide
and natural fiber clothing.
Most South eastern
Native American collectables from the historic period include
clothing, both hide and trade cloth adorned with European glass
beads. Many of these items especially from the pre 1870 period
are extremely rare and can run into tens of thousands of
dollars. Many have not survived due to improper storage or they
were just thrown out or discarded.
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1940 Mens Jacket
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Other south
eastern collectables include grass and cane basketry. The most
rare is the Chitmacha, less than one hundred members of this
tribe survived into the 1930's.
This tribe made
very fine three color cane baskets that were actually a basket
woven into another basket.
These great cane
baskets in the market today are highly prized and can bring
several hundred to many thousands of dollars. The Cherokee and
Choctaw also made wonderful cane basketry and older larger
baskets will bring several hundred dollars. Cane baskets were
made by all cultures including Africans and Asians. As a novice
you need to buy some books to learn
the differences.
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1920 Seminole Man's Long Shirt
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I am including
some photos of Seminole men's' shirts from the 1920's through
the 1950's. These have become increasingly hard to find. They
are primarily cotton trade cloth and were treadle sewing machine
sewn. Trade cloth shirts evolved in the 18th century,
through trade. The brightly colored Seminole patchwork shirt
really did not appear until the 1890's.
Shirts or long
shirts as they are called, are very rare and have minimal
quilted design. They were mostly calico or early printed cloth.
The next phase, known as men's big shirts from 1910 to 1920's
stripes, blocks, and zig zags were incorporated. By the 1930's
more design elements were incorporated and the length was
shortened as more and more men were wearing trousers. By the
1940's the big shirt has evolved into a jacket with even more
complicated patchwork design elements. Moving into the 1950's
and 60's we see more use of thin striped and ric rac design.
Collars also appear. Today the Seminoles still make these
brightly colored designs, although the colors are not as muted
and the cloth is no longer cotton. Dresses were also made during the
same periods. They follow the same design evolution.
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Detail Patch Work
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Although these
pieces are becoming scarce, especially patchwork from the
1900-1930's period, they are still around. Prices for a long
shirt can range from a few hundreds to several thousand dollars.
Later pieces from the 40's to the 60's can still be purchased
very reasonably. They are wonderful to the eye and think of all
that quilting. So get out there, get educated, and
get hunting.
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